Saturday, June 13, 2009

Minute Man NHP

After Walden Pond, we headed north to Minute Man National Historical Park. It's in pieces and cuts through Concord, Lincoln (I think) and Lexington. Concord and Lexington is, of course, considered the opening battles of the American Revolution. About 700 British army regulars were sent to Concord to take away the militia's supplies. Colonials tried to stop them at Lexington, but the Redcoats pushed west and met their match at Concord. This is where the westernmost part of the National Park site is located, at a place called North Bridge (you can see it in a few of my photos). The militia beat the Regulars back to Lexington and, with more and more reinforcements from the colonials, eventually all the way back to Boston.

Ralph Waldo Emerson immortalized the conflict at North Bridge as 'the shot heard 'round the world' in his Concord Hymn. Personally, I first knew about this place from the Schoolhouse Rock episode of the same name. God - those things were so damn great. Even then, I liked the American history ones more than the others.

BubbleShare: Share photos - Find great Clip Art Images.

photos from Walden Pond

BubbleShare: Share photos - Easy Photo Sharing

Neck-Beards and The Butter Rebellion

Jamie and I headed for Walden Pond today (Saturday, 6/6/09). It was pretty great to find this place on the map as I was looking for other places. It's located west of the DeCordova Museum and southeast of Concord - North Bridge, where I'm heading next. Walden Pond is most famous for being the site where Henry David Thoreau set up a cabin and lived the natural life, depicted in Walden. The first sentence of his Wikipedia entry reads as follow:
Henry David Thoreau (born David Henry Thoreau; July 12, 1817 – May 6, 1862)[1] was an American author, poet, naturalist, tax resister, development critic, surveyor, historian, philosopher, and leading transcendentalist.
Pretty awesome first sentence. The area is now a state park and seems to get pretty crowded. There are a few swimmers in the lake (looking like they're training) and we ran into quite a few people on the paths. The cabin you see in the pictures is a recreation, located by the parking lot. The cabin site is about 3/4 of a mile from there, with nothing there except stone posts where archeologists say he lived. He was there for two years and, contrary to what I thought, wasn't living in the total wilderness. He was on the edge of town and the family home was 1.5 miles away. In my mind, however, that takes nothing away from his attempt at simple living.

The title of this post comes from the fact that, apparently he sported one and thought that women would be all about it. However, Louisa May Alcott supposedly told Ralph Waldo Emerson that Thoreau's facial hair "will most assuredly deflect amorous advances and preserve the man's virtue in perpetuity." That awesome diss (!) brings up the fact that the Concord area was teeming with authors and thinkers at this time. Besides Emerson, Thoreau and Alcott, there was Nathaniel Hawthorne (also from Salem, MA), Margaret Fuller and Ellery Channing. Just a few miles north of Walden is a house called The Wayside, also called The House of Authors (I went on Monday - closed).

Another part of his legend states that, even though he attended Harvard, he refused to pay the $5 to receive his diploma, saying "let every sheep keep his own skin". The best part of the story is that there was no academic merit to the diploma, since Harvard College offered it to graduates "who proved their physical worth by being alive three years after graduating, and their saving, earning, or inheriting quality or condition by having Five Dollars to give the college." Adding to the lore, his maternal grandfather supposedly led the "Butter Rebellion" at Harvard, where students reacted to the bad food. A quick jump over to Wikipedia also talks about the "Bread and Butter Rebellion of 1805" and the "Cabbage Rebellion of 1807". Those proto-Transcendentalists were all about their food!

There's a lot more interesting stuff to know about Thoreau, so I suggest you pick up a book about him. He was one of the first Americans to support Darwin's theory of evolution. He was also a stalwart abolishionist. In fact, the reason he gave for not paying taxes was the Mexican-American War and slavery. The fierce abolishionist John Brown was derided at first for his actions at Harpers Ferry, where he led a raid on a U.S. arsenal to help cause an armed slave rebellion, only to be crushed by a Col. Robert E. Lee. However, because of Thoreau's speech on the matter, Brown came to be accepted as a martyr for the cause. People even started singin about John Brown's body to a tune we know better as 'Battle Hymm of the Republic'.

Maybe most interesting is his influence on later thinkers. Mahatma Gandhi once told a reporter that:
"[Thoreau's] ideas influenced me greatly. I adopted some of them and recommended the study of Thoreau to all of my friends who were helping me in the cause of Indian Independence. Why I actually took the name of my movement from Thoreau's essay 'On the Duty of Civil Disobedience,' written about 80 years ago."
Another civil rights leader said this about Thoreau:

Here, in this courageous New Englander's refusal to pay his taxes and his choice of jail rather than support a war that would spread slavery's territory into Mexico, I made my first contact with the theory of nonviolent resistance. Fascinated by the idea of refusing to cooperate with an evil system, I was so deeply moved that I reread the work several times.

I became convinced that noncooperation with evil is as much a moral obligation as is cooperation with good. No other person has been more eloquent and passionate in getting this idea across than Henry David Thoreau. As a result of his writings and personal witness, we are the heirs of a legacy of creative protest. The teachings of Thoreau came alive in our civil rights movement; indeed, they are more alive than ever before. Whether expressed in a sit-in at lunch counters, a freedom ride into Mississippi, a peaceful protest in Albany, Georgia, a bus boycott in Montgomery, Alabama, these are outgrowths of Thoreau's insistence that evil must be resisted and that no moral man can patiently adjust to injustice.

It's a long quote, but when Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. tells you who influenced him - well...I think it says a lot about a man who embraced 'simple living' for two years by a pond.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

photos from DeCordova Museum and Sculpture Park

BubbleShare: Share photos - Easy Photo Sharing

DeCordova Museum and Sculpture Park

I'm staying with my friend Jamie for most of this trip (see first post). She just got her Masters from Tufts in Museum Education and even though she has a full-time job at another institution, she still works part-time at DeCordova Museum and Sculpture Park, located in Lincoln, MA. It was founded in 1950 by the will of a Boston-area businessman named Julian DeCordova, who was an avid art collector. The museum is his former home with a modernist glass entryway, and is surrounded by 35 acres filled with artwork.

This piece, entitled The Musical Fence, created in 1980 by New York City born artist Paul Matisse is fascinating to be around. People naturally want to interact and make sounds with the work, which to this musician is more than fine. It's also interesting to me that it's a linear work, at least along one axis, which to me reflects music. Anyone can write down notes, or play them, but when laid out a certain way and you follow it along one axis, it's Beethoven' Seventh Symphony. Or your daughter's piano recital.



Jamie wanted to go this particular night especially, because it was the opening of their new show The Old, Weird America, which is, in their words, 'the first museum exhibition to explore the widespread resurgence of folk imagery and mythic history in recent art from the United States.' Furthermore...

The exhibition borrows its inspiration and title—with the author's blessing—from music and cultural critic Greil Marcus' 1997 book of the same title that examines the influence of folk music on Bob Dylan and The Band's seminal album, The Basement Tapes.


Due to the open bar portion of the evening (not to mention the summer sausage and Minute Men re-enactors), I didn't see the whole show. What I did see was funny and surreal (Greta Pratt's Nineteen Lincolns), vaguely unsettling (Aaron Morse's works, like The Good Hunt) and extremely disturbing (Kara Walker's 8 Possible Beginnings or: The Creation of African-America, a Moving Picture). All were probing and moving, none more than Walker's work.

I hope you enjoy some of the sculpture park artwork that I took photos of. Nothing does the place justice, so try to make it a priority to visit the DeCordova in your travels. This is one tableau, though, that you might not see when you're there...

photos from Salem Maritime NHP

BubbleShare: Share photos - Find great Clip Art Images.

Salem Maritime National Historical Park


(National Park Service photo, circa 1900)


After the JFK Library, which is south of Boston, I headed to Salem, which is north of Boston. I took the interstate through the Big Dig, the giant tunnel beneath a major part of the city. Salem itself is famous for the witch trails of 1692, a history that the city embraces wholeheartedly as seen by the witch and broomstick silhouette on the police cars and the Witchcraft Heights Elementary School. Within the last 40 years or so, as the economic and manufacturing base went away, commerce came to the city in the form of New Age and Wiccan business, as well as kitchy Halloween-type attractions.

However, I came to Salem to visit the Salem Maritime National Historical Park. Turns out, it was the first NHP ever designated, which is extremely fitting since it was an incredible center of trade in early America. America's first recorded millionaire was in Salem, a man who made his fortune by having his ships go far and wide for trade. There is a fantastic place, the West India Goods store, where you can buy a lot of the items that traded through the port. For good cooks, it's worth a stop to check out their spices. I brought back a few different teas and some coffee to try out. A NPS tour by the waterfront take you to two neighboring, but decidedly different houses. First is the Narbonne house, built in the 1675. The NPS site says that it housed successful businessmen, but it's overwhelmingly bleak to witness. Supposedly, the house was lived in until the 1960s, which is ten times more bleak, as it hadn't seemed to change much in the 300 years.



The other house was magnificent. This was the Derby house, home to a successful merchant Elias Hasket Derby and his (young and, apparently, bored) wife Elizabeth Derby. It's a great example of Georgian architecture. In the photos that I'm going to post after this, take a look at the banister molding, all hand-carved and each one unique.



I don't have many regrets from this trip, but if I had to identify one, it would be that I didn't find the time to get to the Peabody Essex Museum. Originally the Peabody Museum of Salem, in Salem, Massachusetts is the oldest continuously operating museum in the United States, and holds one of the major collections of Asian art in the US; its total holdings include about 1.3 million pieces, as well as twenty-four historic buildings. It was founded in 1799 as the East India Marine Society by a group of Salem-based captains and supercargoes. Members of the Society were required by the society's charter to collect "natural and artificial curiosities" from beyond the Cape of Good Hope or Cape Horn. Something for next time!